Leather shoe care: polishing, waterproofing and storage
Leather shoe care takes a few minutes a week, yet it decides whether a pair lasts one winter or many years. Here, step by step, is what to do before the first wear, the weekly routine, protection against water and storage. Suede and nubuck get their own section, with a list of what never to do.
Before the first wear
New leather shoes come out of the box with a thin factory finish, but no real protection. Before you wear them, brush off the dust and work in a thin layer of neutral shoe cream with a soft cloth. Leave it to soak in for a quarter of an hour, then buff with a brush. This feeds the leather and stops the first shower from leaving marks.
Next comes a protective spray against water and dirt. Hold the can 20 to 30 cm away, apply two thin coats and let the shoes dry overnight. New leather is still a little stiff and only moulds to your foot after a few hours of wear.
The label inside the shoe tells you whether your pair is really leather; our guide to telling real leather from synthetic explains what else to check. A synthetic upper needs no cream, just a damp cloth.
Weekly leather shoe care in five minutes
Good-looking leather is not about one big polish a year, but about a small habit. After each day of wear, brush away dust and grit with a horsehair brush, put in shoe trees and let the pair rest for 24 hours. Leather absorbs moisture from the foot; without a day off it never dries out completely and starts to crack.
Once a week, do a little more. Wipe the shoe with a slightly damp cloth and let it dry. Apply a thin layer of cream, neutral or matching the colour of the leather, leave it to soak in for a quarter of an hour and buff with the brush.
Wax polish comes only after that, and only on smooth leather such as the classic styles in our article on dress shoes. Wax adds shine and a little extra protection on the toe and heel, but it does not feed the leather: cream nourishes, wax protects, in that order.
A basic kit is small and lasts for years:
- a horsehair brush and a soft cotton cloth;
- neutral shoe cream, possibly also cream in the colour of your shoes;
- a protective spray against water and dirt;
- shoe trees, ideally cedar;
- for suede and nubuck: a crepe brush and a suede eraser.
White leather sneakers, from Ecco and Geox among others in our store, are cared for in the same way, with white or neutral cream. Scuffs on the rubber sole come off with a damp cloth and a drop of washing-up liquid.
Waterproofing
Brussels is a wet city, and leather does not like wet. A protective spray makes your shoes water-repellent: drops bead off and dirt clings less. Reapply at the start of autumn and then regularly through the winter, each time two thin coats on a clean, dry shoe. Test on a hidden spot first, as some products slightly darken light leather.
Water-repellent is not the same as waterproof. A spray protects you from a shower, not from the puddle you step into. The truly waterproof styles are covered in our article on boots.
Shoes soaked through all the same? Loosen the laces, stuff them with newspaper and let them dry at room temperature, never on a radiator or with a hairdryer, because heat makes leather crack. Salt marks come off with a cloth dipped in water and a dash of white vinegar, followed by fresh cream; for the cold months, see also our article on winter shoes.
Suede and nubuck
Suede and nubuck, leathers with a brushed surface, feel soft but soak up dirt and water faster than smooth leather. The rule is simple: never cream, never wax. Both make the fibres greasy and flat, and there is no undoing it.
What you should do: two coats of protective spray before the first wear, then regularly after that. After each day of wear, brush with a crepe brush in one direction so the fibres stand up again. Dry marks come off with a suede eraser.
Does your sneaker combine smooth leather and suede? Treat each part separately: cream on the smooth leather, only the brush on the suede.
What you should never do
- dry shoes on a radiator, in direct sunlight or with a hairdryer;
- put leather shoes in the washing machine;
- use cream or wax on suede and nubuck;
- use dark cream on light leather, unless you want to change its colour;
- store shoes in a plastic bag;
- put a wet pair back on the next day.
Storage and shoe trees
Shoe trees are the best purchase after the shoes themselves. They keep the shape, smooth out the creases of the day and absorb moisture. Choose cedar over plastic, as it also takes up odours. Put them in as soon as you take your shoes off, while the leather is still warm.
Store your shoes somewhere dry and well ventilated, away from sunlight and heating. The original box you take your shoes home in from our store is ideal: it keeps out dust and light while still letting air through.
Is a pair going into the cupboard for a few months, like sandals in October or boots in April? Clean them first, apply cream and let them stand for a day before putting them away. Tall boots are stored upright, with a boot tree or a rolled-up magazine in the shaft. The whole routine at a glance:
| When | Smooth leather | Suede and nubuck |
|---|---|---|
| Before the first wear | Thin layer of neutral cream, then 2 coats of spray at 20–30 cm | Only 2 coats of spray at 20–30 cm |
| After each day of wear | Brush off, shoe trees, 24 hours’ rest | Crepe brush in one direction, shoe trees, 24 hours’ rest |
| Weekly | Damp cloth, cream left for 15 minutes, buff | Brush, suede eraser on dry marks |
| Start of autumn and winter | 2 more coats of spray | 2 more coats of spray |
Not sure which leather your pair is made of, or which cream suits it? Come and see us at Place du Jeu de Balle 40, open every day from 9.30 am to 4 pm: while you try on, we will look at the label with you and tell you how to care for the material. Directions are on our store and getting here page.
Frequently asked questions about leather shoe care
How often should I polish leather shoes?
Give them a quick brush after each day of wear and a layer of cream once a week if you wear them often. Shoes you rarely wear should be cleaned before you put them away.
Can I wash leather shoes in the washing machine?
No. Water, detergent and the drum pull the leather out of shape and wash away its natural oils. Use a damp cloth for the upper and a small brush with a little washing-up liquid for the rubber sole.
Should I waterproof new leather shoes straight away?
Yes, that is the best moment. A thin layer of cream and two coats of protective spray before the first wear prevent the first marks, which are the hardest to remove.
Can I use shoe cream on suede?
No, never. Cream and wax make the brushed fibres greasy and flat, and that cannot be repaired. For suede and nubuck, use a protective spray, a crepe brush and a suede eraser.
